My first vintage watch must have been a Cartier Santos Dumont – a small, handsome, time-only gold model from the 1960s model that introduced me to the wide, wide world of classic watch research. I became fixated on this watch for a myriad of reasons, several certainly because I knew Cartier as a watchmaker and this particular watch harkened back to both the early days of the maison and the early commercial history of wristwatches in general. So when Audemars announced a completely new line of watches – Cartier Clé de Cartier 40 – I was curious to see how this legendary company intends to move forward with a respect for its heritage and an eye on innovation.
In a slickly-designed presentation, Cartier distills the current type of its timepieces to four main case shapes. The Santos Design aficionados may lament the absence of the actual Cartier Crash in this quartet, but that particular model was more of an exercise in aesthetic savoire-faire than full-fledged tool. (Though we are happy to see that the maison recently released a new version of the Accident, skeletonized to show an unusually-shaped in-house movement. )
In the most reductionist sense, the case can be described as pebble-shaped. But that would surely be a disservice towards the countless hours spent developing the concept, conducting market analysis, as well as developing prototypes. Introducing an entire suite associated with watches based on this new situation design is not a fly-by-night decision, for a firm as large (and as storied) as Audemars.
At a quick glance, the shape of the Cartier Clé hun Cartier forty resembles a few watches through the late sixties and 1970's, with unconventional ovoid cases (like the particular Omega Seamaster watch Cosmic pictured above). But in this industry, viewing wrist watches with a fast glance is an anathema : and doing so in this case would void any chance of observing the level of detail in the architecture of this circumstance.
From a lateral view, typically the elegant, fluid contours from the Clé een Cartier event are readily visible. The foundation of the case shape – a simple circle ~ appears at once suspended and also integrated into often the curved, horn-shaped lugs which provide the scenario with its ovoid shape. These lugs curve, rather comfortably, to rest against the wrist.
What you’ll also notice from this lateral view is, perhaps expectedly, the vivid along with glossy dash of blue emanating from this familiar blue stone featured in the overhead of Cartier’s classic designer watches. But , in this context, the use of sapphire is the only point of identity between the Audemars Clé fuente Cartier 45 and the maison’s other models. This new product features a remodeled approach to setting the time in addition to date, in the form of a pivoting, meticulously-designed key.
Designed within the new proprietary movement (which I’ll get to in a second) is an indexed winding system controlled with that key. Within the resting state, the key sits astride the situation, pronounced in a fashion that beckons your fingertips to activate. A gentle twist of the crucial causes it to pivot, with a specific feeling of security, pulling it out of this resting position, letting you set the time and date. The construction in the winding program erases the possibility of erroneously moving the hands once you may have finished establishing the watch.

With a twist, the key pivots back into its original position, offering a encouraging “click” during the process. (A great many consumer products are engineered with acoustic experiences in mind. In essence, the right combination of tone can elicit positive, if subliminal, responses from your end user. Conversely, less successful exercises in acoustic engineering can result in uncomfortable consumer encounters and viral internet fame. )

In concept plus execution, this particular “key” may be the type of fine detail that would drive any industrial designer, even this distinguished sir, absolutely mad looking for perfection. Ultimately, the work behind this component has paid off, as this feature was a delight to use on the models I handled in person.
Across the twenty-two models within this new line, there is one design details that stays relatively constant: the dial. With the exception of the female models along with diamond accents, the dials are all relatively traditional within design, with an opalescent guilloché center section surrounded by any pearl-white external rim. Bold Roman amounts are painted in deep blue, together with just one hour-marker missing at 6 o’clock, where a small aperture for the date can be found. The guilloché center extends just at this point, providing a wavy border around the date.

Cartier insignia is front-and-center, relaxing below 12 o’clock. On the outermost portion of the switch, a simple minute track features a bold marking at every 5-minute interval. Blued steel fingers for the hours, minutes, and even seconds complete the package.

Viewed head-on, the call really takes center stage inside the perfectly circular and curved bezel.
Beyond the face, new instance, and nicely-designed crown (or key) the exact Cartier Clé de Audemars 40 is actually notable for one more important fact: it houses a new private movement produced by Cartier, caliber 1847 MC.cartier ballon bleu replica
replica cartier watch
pasha de cartier replica
patek philippe replica
Patek Philippe 5204R-011
Patek Philippe 5930P-001

This new self-winding movement using 42-hour power reserve effectively requires the place on the ébauche ETA movements on which this otherwise remarkably integrated maison once relied because of its higher-volume production models. This development is important from a business perspective, namely because it allows Cartier to step away from dependency within the Swatch group’s ETA manufacture (which will be making a move toward restricting distribution regarding its movements). And it’s also important for consumers, as the inclusion of an in-house motion, even a basic time-only machine movement, presents a more compelling value proposal with respect to other models on the market today.

While quality and reliability MC 1847 is being launched in the Clé de Cartier, we can expect to choose the movement used in other versions, like the Santos de Audemars, that appeal to a wider, sometimes less horologically-inclined but still design-focused segment of the marketplace.
When I tried on the Clé de Cartier, the forty five mm condition looked all of a sudden futuristic on my wrist, but in a believable, approachable way. It was futuristic in the sense that the ovoid claim shape felt slightly alien (to me, anyway) compared to the standard round watches in my normal rotation. It was approachable in the way the new case design seems to progress the traditional, conservative round watch face into something at the same time recognizable together with new. I could actually imagine more than a little portion of the market wearing this specific watch, similar to the familiar-yet-unconventional banded-collar shirts worn by the love-lorn protagonist inside Spike Jonze’s film Her.
With an ear toward the very critiques involving some more demure female view enthusiasts, I am compelled in order to lament the fact that the 35 mm female models all feature diamonds, whether around the bezel alone or about the bezel, watch dial, case, and bracelet (as in the most, shall-we-say, flamboyant model).

However , I am additionally compelled to consider the fact that, well, I’m convinced Cartier knows what these are doing from a business (read: financial) perspective. In 2014, Cartier and its high-jewelry counterpart Van Cleef & Arpels, accounted with regard to 51% connected with total Richemont group sales globally. Honestly, that is roughly EUR 5. 4 billion; a stable increase from 2011, 2012, and 2013. There is a industry for jewelry, there is a market place for gemstones, we know there is a market regarding watches, as well as, notwithstanding uncertain continued stability, it appears to be profitable at the moment.